Retinol Is Two Steps Slow. Here's What I Use Instead.
Why I moved to retinal after Moxi, why tretinoin is still the gold standard, and the nightly sandwich I use now.
@bellingwood on InstagramSwipe the retinal carousel →Retinol has a paperwork problem. Before your skin can use it, it has to be converted twice.
Retinal skips a step. That's the whole reason I switched, and the reason I made this carousel.
The short version
Your skin only acts on one thing: retinoic acid. Everything else is a precursor.
- Retinol → retinal → retinoic acid. Two conversions. Gentle, slow, and a lot of it is lost on the way.
- Retinal (retinaldehyde) → retinoic acid. One conversion. Faster than retinol, still far easier on skin than prescription.
- Tretinoin is retinoic acid itself. No conversion. The most proven and the most irritating.
I've done tretinoin 0.1%. It's the gold standard, and if you love it, stay on it. But I have sensitive skin and I get laser treatments a lot, which means going off retinoids again and again. I just finished Moxi, and coming back I wanted something lighter than tret that I could actually stay consistent with. That's retinal.
What I use
Dieux Firm Revival Hydroretinal Firming Serum. I just started it as my lighter-than-tret retinoid post-Moxi, and I'll report back as my skin builds tolerance. → Shop Firm Revival
Dieux sent me product (#gifted), and I'd still buy it.
My nightly retinal sandwich
- Hydrate first: Sweet Chemistry Hydra Serum on clean skin. It buffers the retinal so it's gentler.
- Retinal in the middle: Dieux Firm Revival.
- Seal it: Sweet Chemistry Hydra Cream as the occlusive on top.
- Morning: SPF, every day. Retinoids make skin more sun-sensitive.
The serum and cream come as a set: Sweet Chemistry Hydra-Hydra Duo — code Brian20 for 20% off.
Why I don't skip nights: retinoids reward consistency, including through the awkward phase while your skin builds tolerance. If you're new or sensitive, every other night is a fine place to start.
The one exception: retinoids come off two weeks before any laser. Non-negotiable. I restart retinal 1–2 weeks after, depending on how sensitive my skin is.
Should you switch from tretinoin?
I'm not a dermatologist, so that's between you and yours. If tret works for you, stick with it. It's the gold standard. Retinal is for people like me: sensitive skin, frequent lasers, and a need for something you can use every night without a fight.
Who retinal suits
First-timers, sensitive skin, anyone who quit tretinoin because of the peeling.
Full routine I built around 0.1% tretinoin: My Barrier-First Tretinoin Routine
My day and night routine, splurge to K-beautyShop my full routine in the Skin Hub →Links pay me a commission. I only link what I use.
